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       "Rice and Risotto"
                                                                                        September 25, 2008 - Vol. 1, Issue 12
In This Issue
Fall Storewide Sale
October Cooking Classes
Grains of Rice
Remarkable Risotto
Cooking Rice Perfectly
Smart Rice Tips
Q & A
Cookbook Review
Recipes
Store Hours
Store Hours
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Rice and Risotto
Rice from a JarSome things get a special day of the year designated for celebration; other things get a full month's worth! September is National Rice Month.  A "National Rice Day" just would not do justice to the world's primary food staple.  Americans consume about 25 pounds of rice per year, with almost 90% of it grown domestically and much of it exported. Grown primarily in tropical and sub-tropical regions throughout the world, thousands of regional rice varieties inspire local classics.  In this issue, we demystify some basics on how to choose the right rice for a particular recipe, explore some ways for cooking rice successfully, and then focus on the exquisite rice dish of Northern Italy, risotto!
September Cooking Classes
Click to view September, October, November, December Class Details!
Click on the Class Title for complete details and registration information.
 
Mon, Sep 29
- Gluten, Dairy & Soy Free Baking with Laura Karasek
Harper's Point from 6:30 - 9:00pm.  $40  -  New date due to Wind Storm!
 (Also offered Thu Oct 2 at Settlers' Walk)
 
Thu, Oct 2, 9, 16 - Adult Basic Culinary Skills Series
Three Class Series (Oct 2, 9, 16) with Greg Genetti
Harper's Point from 6:00 - 9:00pm. $215/3-class series
For beginning and practiced cooks who want to who want to develop basic culinary skills and gain proficiency in the kitchen, this series will teach you the essentials of great cooking!

Thu, Oct 2 - Gluten, Dairy & Soy Free Baking with Laura KarasekApples
Settlers' Walk from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $40
(Also offered Mon, Sep 29 at Harper's Point)

Tue, Oct 7 - Celebrate Apple Season with Matthew Hayden
Settlers' Walk from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $45

Thu, Oct 9 - Soups, Stews, and a Sweet with Bev Shaffer
Settlers' Walk from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $55
(Also offered Fri, Oct 10 at Harper's Point).

Fri, Oct 10 - Soups, Stews, and a Sweet with Bev Shaffer
Harper's Point from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $55
(Also offered Thu, Oct 9 at Settlers' Walk).

Tue, Oct 14 - Haute Chocolate with Lisa Cooper-Holmes
Harper's Point from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $45
Class Full!  Also offered Wed, Oct 15 at Settler's Walk.

Wed, Oct 15 - Haute Chocolate with Lisa Cooper-Holmes
Settlers' Walk from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $45
(Also offered Tue, Oct 14 at Harper's Point).

Wed, Oct 15 - Autumn in Provence with Marilyn Harris
Harper's Point from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $65

Apple CrispThu, Oct 16 - Everyday Gourmet with Edward Stanziano
Settlers' Walk from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $45

Sat, Oct 18 - New Fall Apple Favorites with Leigh Ochs
Harper's Point from 11:00am - 1:30pm. $45

Sat, Oct 18 - A Haunting Halloween Party for Ages 6-8 with Lorraine Gose
Settlers' Walk from 11:00am - 1:00pm. $35

Mon, Oct 20 - Appetizers by Chef Paul with Paul Dagenbach
Harper's Point from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $50
Class Full! Also offered Mon, Nov 17 at Settler's Walk.

Thu, Oct 23 - Eat Well's 'Goodies' from Scratch with Renee Schuler
Harper's Point from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $40

Thu, Oct 23 - Meadowlark Salad Secrets with Elizabeth Wiley
Settlers' Walk from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $40

Sat, Oct 25 - Funny Holiday Treats for Ages 6-8 with Ruth Cammerer & Ann Nofziger
Harper's Point 11:00am - 1:00pm. $35

Half Pie CoolingSat, Oct 25 - Pies, Tarts and Turnovers Made Easy with Todd Davis
Settlers' Walk from 12:00 noon - 2:30pm. $40

Mon, Oct 27 - Classic Southern Cuisine with Damon Lee Fowler
Harper's Point from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $70

Tue, Oct 28 - True Southern Hospitality with Damon Lee Fowler
Settlers' Walk from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $70

Tue, Oct 28 - Perfect Pies with Jessica Zimmerman & Michael Andresen
Harper's Point
from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $40

Wed, Oct 29 - Time Saving, Energy Saving Cooking with Lori Cole
Harper's Point from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $35
(Also offered Thu, Oct 30 at Settlers' Walk).

Thu, Oct 30 - Time Saving, Energy Saving Cooking with Lori Cole
Settlers' Walk from 6:30 - 9:00pm. $35
(Also offered Wed, Oct 29 at Harper's Point)

 3 Ways to Register: On-Line, In Store, or by Phone
Harper's Point classes - Call 513-489-6400     Settlers' Walk classes - Call 937-748-4540 10% Discount on merchandise purchases on the day you attend class!  (excluding kitchen electrics)
No Class Discount during Storewide Sale.
Grains of Rice
Seafood RisottoUnderstanding some basics about rice will allow you to choose the best type for your recipe.  With thousands and thousands of rice varieties, it's no wonder that we're mystified about what rice to use in which dish!  Beyond the specific type of rice, there's a list of adjectives for how rice is processed that further complicates the matter, e.g., white, brown, parboiled, converted, or instant.

Rice is roughly categorized by its size and shape: long-grain, medium-grain, and short-grain.  Conveniently, the rice's size and shape also correlates with its chemical composition. Rice has two primary starches, amylose and amylopectin.  Amylose consists of molecules that when moistened and heated change, but stay relatively intact.  In contrast, amylopectin has a branching molecular structure that disintegrates when cooked causing the edges of the rice grain to dissolve and the surface to become rough and sticky.
Rice Diagram

Long-grain rices have a higher amylose content than amylopectin content; while short-grain rices have more amylopectin and less amylose.  Knowing this will allow you to predict how the rice will react when cooked.  Confused? Just remember, "Long and loose, short and sticky."

Three RicesLong-grain rice - Long grain rice is long and slender, four to five times longer than it is wide.  This type of rice has a higher amylose content than amylopectin and cooks up as individual kernels, light and fluffy. Use long-grain rice for pilafs and as a base for topping with other foods. Long-grain varieties include: Basmati rice, Carolina rice, Patna rice, Jasmine rice, Popcorn rice, and Pecan Rice.

Medium-grain rice - Medium-grain rice is about two to three times longer than it is wide.  Medium-grain rices have more amylopectin starch than their long-grain counterparts, and cook up with stickier kernels.  Examples of medium-grain rice include:  Bomba, a Spanish rice for paella, and Arborio, an Italian rice for risotto,

Short-grain rice - Short-grain rice is generally less than twice as long as it is wide.  Their ovoid shapes are full of amylopectin and little amylose, and cook up with an even stickier quality.  Short-grain rice is best used for puddings, molded presentations, sushi, or anywhere where its stickiness is an advantage. In culinary practice, medium-grain and short-grain rices are often lumped together and substituted one for the other. Examples of short-grain rice include: Glutinous rice, Mochi rice, Pearl rice, and Sushi rice.

How rice is processed after its harvest impacts how it cooks and its culinary application:

Brown and White RicesBrown rice - Rice kernels have three major layers:  the hull or chaff, the bran, and the inner kernel.  Brown rice is rice that has had the hull removed, but where the bran layer is intact. Long, medium, or short-grain rices are each available as brown rice, though medium and short-grain rices will be less sticky than their white counterparts.

White rice - White rice is processed further with both the outer hull layer and the bran layer removed leaving just the inner kernel. Similarly, long, medium, or short-grain varieties all exist as white rice.

Remarkable Risotto
We have yet to meet a risotto recipe that does not include the word "creamy" in its description.  Yet the creaminess is not from cream, but from a suspension of the rice's starch in fragrant wine and sumptuous stock.

Ladling StockThe basic ingredients for a risotto are few and simple: a risotto rice, an onion, olive oil and butter, a little wine, a great stock, a hard finishing cheese, and a patient spoon.  Choosing the right rice is essential; choose a medium-grain rice that has a higher amylose content than long-grain rice.  Arborio rice is the classic choice for risotto.  Grown in the Po region of Italy, Arborio is readily available everywhere.  Lesser known Italian rices, Carnaroli, Maratelli, Baldo, and Vialone Nano are also highly prized for risotto making.

Risotto recipes share the same basics steps:

(1)    Heat the stock in a nearby saucepan and keep warm.

(2)    Sauté the finely diced onion in a little olive oil.  Add the rice and stir allowing each kernel to be coated in the oil. Briefly sauté until the rice begins to have a translucent quality.
Stirring Risotto
(3)    Add the wine to the rice mixture and gently cook until all of the wine has been absorbed.

(4)    Gradually add the warmed stock to the rice using just a ladleful at a time.  Keep the heat at a moderate level and at a continuous bubble.  Stir the rice constantly.  As the stock is absorbed, add the next ladle. The finished rice should have an al dente consistency, like perfect pasta.

(5)    When all of the stock has been absorbed, stir in the butter and finely grated cheese. Adjust seasonings and serve.

With the basics mastered, risotto is the perfect dish for improvisation!  Use different medium-grain rices, change the type of wine, substitute a different stock, and accent with any number of flavors.  The first recipe below is a great risotto for practicing your skills.  From there, try some of these variations:

  • RisottoPesto - Add finely chopped fresh basil and a diced tomato to the onion sauté.  Use a dry white wine and a chicken stock.  Finish with Parmesan cheese and toasted pine nuts
  • Mushroom - Add a variety of mushrooms, Shitake, Portobello, or Porcini, to the onion sauté. Use a red wine and a beef stock.  Finish with Parmesan cheese and finely chopped parsley.
  • Walnut - Sauté the walnuts in butter, remove, then proceed with sautéing shallots.  Use a dry vermouth and a chicken stock.  Finish with a mix of Gorgonzola and Parmesan cheeses and the sautéed walnuts.
  • Artichoke and Lemon - Use quartered artichoke hearts and lemon zest.  Start with a basic risotto preparation using a dry white wine and chicken stock.  Add the artichokes and lemon in the last few minutes of cooking the rice.  Finish with grated Romano cheese.
  • Shrimp and Garlic - Sauté onion adding minced garlic and small shrimp in the last 2 minutes.  Remove the mixture from the pan and set aside while the rice is cooking.  Use a dry white wine with chicken stock. With the last ladle of stock, add the onion, garlic and shrimp.  Finish with butter and Parmesan cheese.
  • Fruity - Use semi-dry red wine and chicken stock.  Add dried cherries and golden raisins with the rice allowing the dried fruit to absorb liquid along with the rice.  Finish with Brie or another triple cream cheese.
  • Green Risotto - Begin with a basic risotto using vermouth and chicken stock.  Puree spinach, mint, and green peas together and add to the rice mixture in the last few minutes of cooking.   Finish with butter and Parmesan cheese.

Cooking Rice Perfectly
Cooked RiceThree things need to align in order to achieve perfectly cooked rice:  (1) the right rice, (2) the ratio of liquid to rice, and (3) the proper application of heat.  The first quick way to succeed in cooking rice is to choose the right rice for the recipe by identifying the desired outcome.  Does the dish require fluffy rice with distinct grains, or sticky rice where the grains hang together when cooked?  The next step in success is determining how much liquid to use.  Generally, long-grain rice requires 2 parts water to 1 part rice.  But this is where trouble begins, because different rice varieties have different starch compositions and different absorption abilities. Medium-grain rice requires 1.5 parts water to 1 part rice, and short-grain rice demands 1.25 parts water to 1 part rice.  Vigilance and practice in cooking the same variety of rice will soon give you the right proportion of water to grain.  Many of the methods for applying heat help to compensate for these over-generalized water-to-rice ratios.

SaucepanStovetop - Combine the correct proportions of liquid and rice in a saucepan and cover.  Heat to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer until all liquid is absorbed.  The time this takes will vary with the variety of rice and the type of liquid used. Parboiled rice will cook more quickly than regular rice.

Boiling - The boiling method of rice is no fail, but reduces the nutritional value of the rice.  Place the rice in plenty of boiling water, just like making pasta.  Boil gently until the rice is al dente, or "just tender." Drain the rice in a colander or sieve.  Return the rice to the hot pan and let rest for a couple minutes until any excess water is absorbed by the rice.

Rice CookerRice Cookers - This method of cooking rice guarantees success every time!  If you enjoy rice often, a rice cooker is a must.  Rice and water is placed in the inner vessel of the rice cooker. The rice cooker heats the water, and "knows" when all of the water has been absorbed through special sensors.  Once this magic moment has arrived, the rice cooker automatically shifts to a "warm" mode eliminating any possibility of scorching or burning.

Cooking Risotto - Making risotto does not require a special pan, just a good one.  One hazard of risotto making is the possibility of rice sticking to the bottom of the pan and potentially burning.  A quality, heavy-bottomed pan is essential.  
With a quality pan, heat is efficiently absorbed from the Emile Henry Flame Seriesheat source and quickly transferred through its surfaces to the food.  A good saucepan transfers heat evenly without creating dangerous, (or frustrating), hot spots.

Baking Risotto - A great way to make risotto without the manual effort of constant stirring is to use cookware that is versatile on both the stovetop and in the oven.  Start the risotto in the traditional way, on the stovetop.  Instead of adding liquid by the ladleful, add all of the liquid to the rice mixture, cover and bake in a medium oven until all of the liquid is absorbed.  Add the finishing butter and cheese, stir, and return to the oven for an extra 5 minutes.  It's not quite risotto, but not a bad imitation.
 Smart Rice-Making Tips
Two Bowls of RiceTip #1:   Store rice in a dry, airtight container free from changes in humidity. Buy reasonable amounts of rice according to your use habits.  Brown rice with its bran layer will not keep as long as white rice; the fats and oils present in the bran will degenerate more quickly than white rice which has no bran.  Cooked rice is best used within 2-3 days.  Reheating rice, especially long-grain varieties will require a tablespoon or two of liquid for each cup of leftover rice.

Tip #2:  Use a large saucepan for making risotto instead of a broad skillet.  This will minimize the evaporation of liquid allowing more of it to be absorbed by the rice.

Tip #3:  When cooking, rice absorbs hot liquid and the starches transform at their own rate.  Microwaving rice does not significantly reduce the cooking time of rice compared with a stovetop preparation.
Q & A
Saffron RisottoQ & A LogoQ: What is the difference between a rice pilaf and a risotto?
A: A pilaf and a risotto are similar in that the grain is first coated in oil or butter, and then cooked in a vegetable or meat stock.  However, with pilaf the grain is browned in the oil and the end result is fluffier than with risotto.  Due to the type of rice used for risotto and the cooking method, the outer starch layers dissolve into the wine and stock forming a creamy suspension for the kernels.

Q:  What is the difference between rice described as parboiled, converted, polished, or instant?
A:  Converted rice is the same as parboiled rice.  Before the outer hull is removed the rice grains are steamed, a process that transfers some of the hull's nutrients to the kernel.  The rice is dried, then husked.  Parboiled/converted rice tends to be less sticky. The term polished rice is used generally for white rice, or more specifically, for rice where the hull and bran layers have been removed, and a portion of the inner kernel has been "polished" away. Instant rice has been cooked, then dehydrated.  As the name implies, it cooks, actually rehydrates, in just a few minutes.

Wild RiceQ:  What is wild rice?
A:  Wild rice is not rice at all, but rather seeds of certain types of aquatic grasses.  Wild rice is manually harvested from naturally occurring locations in northern climates such as Minnesota and Canada, or mechanically from cultivated fields.  

Q:  Should my rice be rinsed and soaked before cooking?
A:  You'll hear different opinions on this topic.  Domestic sources of rice will suggest not rinsing or soaking. Rice in the U.S. is fortified with vitamins much of which is washed away during rinsing.  Aficionados will insist that rinsing rice will return a cleaner taste.  Soaking rice for an hour allows the kernel to begin absorbing water.  Soaked rice will cook more quickly and leave the kernels more intact and less sticky than unsoaked rice.
Cookbook Review
The Improvisational Cook by Sally Schneider.  Published by HarperCollins Publishers, New York, NY.  Copyright 2006. Nominated for the 2007 James Beard Cookbook Award.

Cookbook"There's no shortcut for experience."  This cookbook disproves that axiom! Truly unique from typical cookbooks, Ms. Schneider turbo charges our culinary knowledge base by imparting essential information about foods, techniques, and pantries that empower us to try some ultimate "mix and match" culinary experimentation without having to flirt with failure.  Ms. Schneider takes a topic and imparts key bits of knowledge in "Understanding" sections that equip the cook with what's important, and why things react and work well in different situations.  From there, several riffs are developed with a curiosity and whimsy that lead to innovative results whether the topic is risotto, onions, poultry, or breads.  Through these flights of improv we not only get to follow along, we witness, firsthand, the thought pattern and the step-by-step process of culinary creativity.  By modeling improvisation, Ms. Schneider teaches and allows us to fine tune our skills.  If you've ever admired a cook or hostess that just seems to instinctively know what to do and consistently produces creative culinary combinations, this book will leapfrog you into a similar league.
Recipes
Recipe reprinted with permission from The Improvisational Cook by Sally Schneider. Published by HarperCollins Publisher, New York, NY.  Copyright 2006.

Lemon RisottoRisotto with Dry Sherry and Lemon

The first bite of this risotto will leave you without words and only some sort of combination of sighing and purring.  This variation is a great one to try if you've never made a risotto.  It's basic enough, yet flavored with wonderfully simple flavors melded to perfection.  We tried it with some leftover Champagne (how did leftover Champagne happen?) and it was an exquisite experience!

Click here to view the full recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe.

Warm Dessert RisottoWarm Dessert Risotto with Bay Leaf and Vanilla

With this recipe, Ms. Schneider gets us in the improvisational mood.  We found this preparation a delightful dessert surpassing traditional rice puddings laden with eggs and cream.  We paired the serving with a peachy dessert wine and a curled cookie.

Click here to view the full recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe.

Crispy Panfried RisottoCrispy Panfried Risotto Cakes

Leftover rice is always a bit of a conundrum.  With these cakes, we found ourselves making a larger batch of risotto to ensure that we would have leftovers and a next day treat of risotto cakes.  Unlike other savory cakes, we were taken with the crispy exterior and the creamy interior.  Risotto twice enjoyed!

Click here to view the full recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe.


Wishing you a season of delightful improvisation!
 
Mary Fricke
Cooks'Wares, Inc.
e-mail:  cookswares@aol.com
website:  www.cookswaresonline.com
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